Okay so, here is an embarrassing story. Two weeks ago, I posted a mirror selfie before heading to a friend's Roka ceremony. Felt good about the fit, the color was nice, and the embroidery looked intricate enough that I thought I had nailed it.

Then this one comment: "Machine work? Bold choice."

I stared at my phone.

Machine work?

I literally bought this from what I thought was a decent store. The tag literally said "premium embroidery. How is that machine work?

So I did what any self-respecting confused person would do, I asked our senior artisan at Orly to look at it the next day. He took one glance, flipped it inside out, and said, "Beta, this is printed and machine-stitched to look like hand embroidery."

I felt like I had been walking around in fake Jordans thinking they were real.

That is when he introduced me to Aari work, an actual handmade embroidery that makes everything else look flat. Literally and figuratively.

 

But why Aari?

There are a bunch of embroidery techniques in Indian ethnic wear but Aari work has this specific thing going for it that makes it stand out.

It is done with a hooked needle (called an Aari, hence the name) that creates these chain-stitch patterns with insane detail and precision. The work is raised, textured, almost three-dimensional. When light hits it, it catches differently than printed or machine embroidery. It looks expensive because it is.

 someone literally sat for hours creating each motif by hand.

But here is the kicker: Aari work is neither as loud as heavy Zardozi with its metallic threads and sequins everywhere nor as delicate and fine as Chikankari.

It sits somewhere in the middle, noticeable, rich-looking, but not over-the-top.

Which makes it perfect for when you want to look put-together without looking like you're trying to outshine the groom.

And very honestly, most guys do not even know what Aari work is, which means when you wear it, you are already ahead of 90% of the room

How to Spot Real Aari Work:

After my artisan friend roasted my "premium embroidery" kurta, he taught me how to spot real Aari work. I have started doing these checks every time I am shopping now, and honestly, it has saved me from a lot of bad purchases.

So I am sharing it with you because you would not want to be in my place

·       Flip it inside out. Real Aari work will have visible thread loops and a slightly messy backing. It won't look perfect because human hands made it.

·       Touch it. Run your fingers over the embroidery. You should feel texture, a slight raised surface.

·       Look for tiny imperfections. This sounds counterintuitive, but real handwork will have small inconsistencies like a stitch that is slightly longer here, a curve that is not perfectly symmetrical there. That is the beauty of it.

·       Check the thread quality. Good Aari work uses silk or metallic threads that have real weight and shimmer. Rub the thread lightly. Does it feel soft or does it feel like scratchy polyester? Does the metallic part look like actual metal or like someone glued aluminum foil on fabric?

My cousin literally made me touch like 15 different kurtas in the store to "train my fingers". The salesperson thought we were insane, but now I can tell the difference in seconds.

When to Wear Aari Work:

·       Weddings (as a guest): This is Aari work's sweet spot. Festive enough to fit the vibe, but not competing with the groom

·       Roka, Engagement, Reception: These are semi-formal events where you want to look polished but not overly traditional. Aari work keeps you in that perfect zone.

·       Durga Puja evening pandal hopping: If you're doing the whole Ashtami or Navami night scene in Kolkata, an Aari work kurta makes you look festive without going full-on heavy embroidery that'll make you sweat through the crowds.

·       Eid: Aari work kurtas are perfect for Eid prayers and the subsequent family gatherings. Respectful, elegant, comfortable.

Not ideal for: everyday office wear (unless your office is very traditional like mine)

Taking Care of Aari Work:

Aari work is not cheap, and if you treat it carelessly, you'll regret it. I learned this when I almost destroyed a kurta by trying to "spot clean" turmeric stains with water. The thread started unraveling. Never again.

·      Dry clean only

·      Don't iron directly on the embroidery.

·      Store it in breathable fabric bags, not plastic.

·      Air it out after wearing

That's it. You don't need a 10-step care routine. Just don't be reckless, and your Aari work kurta will last for years.

 

Is Aari Work Worth It? (My Honest Take)

Before I started working at Orly, I genuinely did not think handwork mattered that much. I thought, "embroidery is embroidery, right? Why pay triple for something that looks similar?"

Then I wore an actual Aari work kurta to a family wedding. The compliments I got were different. Not just "nice kurta," but people were asking where I got it, touching the fabric, commenting on the detailing. And these were people who usually do not care about clothes.

That is when it clicked. Aari work elevates the entire outfit. It is not about being flashy or expensive-looking just for the sake of it. It is about wearing something that has genuine craft behind it, and people notice that, even if they cannot articulate why.

 

So yeah, it's worth it. Not for every kurta in your wardrobe, but for that one versatile piece you can rely on when it matters.

-Arkajeet